We ve left Chandigarh behind now as we head towards Manali. Mani and I had a discussion as to how much we should ride in a day and came to a conclusion that we should take it easy. Riding on hills can be more tiring and I definitely dont want to get stuck some place when its dark. The bike feels really good after the service and the roads are really nice and picturesque too. The fields of Punjab are in full bloom and its a really pretty sight which to be honest has to be seen for you to believe it.
We ve stopped in a punjabi dhaba just about midway between Chandigarh and Manali. The dhaba is situated right on the banks of the river beas and the experience of having the delicious food cooked in pure ghee by the side of the river has me stumped for words again. The only thing that I ve decided now is that I am definitely bringing Anjali on a tour around here. The phone is ringing. Think of the devil, Its Anjali.
"hey doc, hows the trip progressing?"
"going well madame. we are now having lunch in a dhaba on the banks of the river beas and i was just about really missing you here."
"Well, now I have the perfect excuse to make you take me there soon. oh and by the way, I got the letter that you posted from the Taj. It truly transported me back about 25 years. The nostalgia was amazing. Thanks for that. I love you."
"Well well, we finally have established that you do love me and its not just the other way around... I am just kidding. I love you too. I ll give you a call as soon as i reach Manali. Oh, and keep ravi informed. I dont know if he got the last email."
"ok dear. take care. bye"
The beauty of the ride has gone up a notch as we cross 'ner chowk' now as we head towards mandi which will then lead us further on to kulu. The road is absolutely fascinating with apple orchards on one side and deep ravines on the other side. The view and the ride is simply amazing. Our progress has been slow as we have stopped in a lot of places to take photos or to just take in the view. Its breathtaking and I can only imagine how it will be at the much higher altitudes closer to leh. Its now evening and a lot of small kids with their bags slung across their heads are going back home. There is so much of life in every step they take and the way the cultural change has been right from the south to the north has been amazing and yet a seemingly seamless process. The entire view of the road, the views, the people make me sing along in joy along with cliff richards- 'You are my theme for a dream
Yes you are, a rare and lovely theme, The dreams I dream day and night,That your arms are holding me so tight..'
We ve crossed kulu now. The weather has progressively gotten chilly and I guess it would be impossible to ride now without our leather jackets and gloves. The mountain throws beautiful shadows in the setting sun and as we go around corners, we come across brightly lit roads or total darkness and the sudden change between the two is unsettling but its a new and exciting experience none the less. I am now riding through small mountain villages by the side of the roads and Manali is less than 15 kms away now as we pass through another small village called 'Katrain'.
I had called in from Chandigarh and booked into Hotel Beas in Manali and as we ride into Manali, I look around for the place. Manali is a typical crowded Indian hill station. Beautiful with a lot of character but the roads are a complete jumble. It took a little while for us to find out our hotel but now there is one good samaritan who is leading us to the hotel on his bike. As we reach closer to the hotel, I can notice smoke coming out of Mani's bike. I pray that its not something serious.
We are now parked in front of the hotel and the news is not good. Looks like the head gasket on Mani's bike gave away and there was a instant loss of compression which has led to oil spilling all over from the top of the block. The smoke was due the oil dripping onto the hot exhaust. Now I dont know how serious a problem this is as all the above was explained to me by Mani. But by the look on his face, I can see that it seems as though the rug has been pulled right off from beneath his feet. I tell him that we can sort it out tomorrow. Manali is a big enough town and there are enough expeditions happening for them to have spares. That much at least I know by following the Madras Bulls expedition a couple of months ago. Mani still does not look convinced and disappointment is writ large on his face. I feel really sorry for him as he just drags his bag into his room not even wanting to have dinner.
Maybe tomorrow, we ll work things out. After all, we ve not come this far to give up now.
To be continued..
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